Cuba Part 7: A trip to the coast, Havana and home

The Plaza Marti and the church of the Virgen del Buen Viaje, Remedios

Santa Clara was the last major stop on the way back to Havana, but we were in for a nice surprise: a short trip north via Remedios to Caibarien on the coast.

Remedios is a small town dating back to the 16th century. Like all Cuban towns it has its main square, the Plaza Marti, and is an ideal place to spend an hour or two just walking around. The Iglesia Parroquia Mayor de San Juan Bautista de Remedios (the parish church, to you) has an amazing carved cedarwood altarpiece covering the entire east wall – the most spectacular piece of interior decoration we saw in any church we visited in Cuba. And we found another church, the church of the Virgen del Buen Viaje, in the throes of restoration. The inside looked like complete chaos, but the place was alive with builders and craftsmen who – presumably – knew what they were doing.

The cedarwood altarpiece (if that's the correct term) of the Iglesia Parroquia Mayor de San Juan Bautista de Remedios

Remedios: the church of the Virgen del Buen Viaje undergoing restoration

And then to Caibarien, once a busy little port, and now fallen on hard times. In fact, semi-abandoned, with great stretches of grand old buildings in various stages of decay, some no more than shells. It was like a film set, the sort of place that attracts photographers with a weakness for ruin porn.  – hard to believe that in the 1920s, National City Bank (today’s Citi) felt the need to set up a branch there. With the aid of an old sepia photo, I was able to track down the building, now occupied by a local bank. I doubt if anyone’s doing much business there. The seafront is derelict, with just a few foundations and other traces of the old quaysides.

The former premises of National Citiy Bank (now Citi or Citibank) in Caibarien

Going to the movies in Caibarien

Talking of industrial relics, there’s an old sugar mill on the road to Caibarien, now the Museo Azucarero Marcelo Salado. It’s hard to resist that vast old machinery, heavy engineering, literally: and there was a steam locomotive museum next to it. There was actually an engine all steamed up ready to run, but with a taxi driver chafing at the bit, anxious to get back to Santa Clara, there was not chance to take a ride.

So that was it. Back to Havana for a day, in preparation for the marathon trip back to London: Air Canada to Toronto; a five-hour wait, and then another Air Canada flight across the North Atlantic. Feedback note: the Toronto–Havana leg seems to be treated as a domestic flight. Be that as it may, you have to pay for everything, the aircraft interior was on the tired side, and the service was – lets say – grudging. Or cursory. Or indifferent. The leg to London was fine, and the food was actually quite good. Air Canada are not as liberal with the drinks and snacks as BA though, it has to be said.

I would like to go back to Cuba. Whether I will is another matter. Maybe to Havana for a less frenetic visit. But there’s no doubt that this was one of the most enjoyable trips I’ve done, and I’m pretty well travelled. But to repeat the earlier message, if you’re thinking of going, go soon.

Band in rehearsal outside the music school in the Plaza Marti, Remedios